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Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
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Topic: Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts" (Read 419 times)
Geek SHOs
Spectator
Posts: 1
SHO Addict
Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
«
on:
July 10, 2011, 02:47:39 AM »
The last couple of SASCA autocrosses I went to were very fun, but the start line was such that drag-launching your car would significantly improve your time. This was because the timing lights started immediately after the starting box. While this may be fun for some, I personally don't like putting the extra stress on my drive-train to be competitive.
A solution I have seen in practice is to design a very slow speed turn or chicane between the starting box and starting lights. This makes it so you essentially get a rolling start on the run that doesn't require side-stepping your clutch at red-line. You can smoothly accelerate from the starting box, and find a traction limit right before the beginning of your timing. Also, you get less debris shooting from the backs of cars at launch.
I'd really like to see this start implemented in some courses, and I'm curious if others feel the same way.
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Sean Simons
'89 Taurus SHO - black
'03 ZX2 - red
Speed3
Cone Killer
Posts: 148
Re: Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
«
Reply #1 on:
July 11, 2011, 03:38:36 PM »
This is part of Autocrossing. ProSolo II events add a drag style light tree for starts. From the "Pro Solo II Novice Handbook" linked from our main page:
Once you are in grid, you will wait for the cars in front of you to launch, and you will move up until you are on the start line. A starter will wave a green flag when it is OK for you to start. The green flag means go as soon as you are ready, the timer will not start until you pass through the lights.
We're all out here to have fun. You set your launch, what you feel comfortable with. I don't launch at red-line, actually, I don't think anyone does. I usually launch in the high 3k to low 4k rpm, depending on what location we are at. There's nothing that mandates how you launch your car. Do what you feel you are comfortable with. Bottom line...HAVE FUN!!!
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There's nothing better than a 2.4L V8 engine screaming to 18,000RPM!
Eric
Executive Secretary
2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - DSP #90
John Patterson
Master of the Stopwatch
Posts: 302
Re: Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
«
Reply #2 on:
July 11, 2011, 05:20:14 PM »
When I first started running my open-wheel car back in January, I was trying to 'baby' the clutch because the disk only has a total wear limit of 0.100" before it has to be replaced. I found it easier to just rev engine to 3K or so and let out the clutch so it grabs immediately and that allows the tires to spin which helps clean off all the gravel, but I have to back off the throttle to stop tire spin once I get past the starting lights or I would be losing time.
I have been autoxing streets cars on and off for many years and I never fretted about the clutch wear from launching the car. I have never burned up a clutch or have found it necessary to replace a clutch from the small amount of 'abuse' at an autox.
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kujitsu
Cone Killer
Posts: 101
Re: Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
«
Reply #3 on:
July 11, 2011, 05:55:42 PM »
The only issue with drag starts is not having a sharp turn after. That hurts pax evaluation.
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Ricky Crow
Administrator
His Holiness of the Horizontal Pylon
Posts: 1108
Re: Start line designed to eliminate "drag starts"
«
Reply #4 on:
July 12, 2011, 12:26:46 PM »
I have one of the most 'torqueless' (and probably most difficult to launch) cars out there, and I never worry about my clutch. I launch my car at 4k rpm or so if on a non-grippy surface like Blossom, 5k+ at Retama, and 6-6.2k rpm on grippy concrete (in ProSolo events, especially)... I've never had an issue with clutch wear. I do worry about breaking other drivetrain components at ProSolo events, where you are doing 24+ launches @ 6,000rpm in one weekend with a co-driver in the car. That's where I worry about my differential, axles, etc. But with traditional AutoCross events, it's generally not as much of an issue. As others have said, if you don't feel comfortable dropping the clutch from a high RPM, you don't have to. If you have an SHO, those cars generally have lots of torque anyway, and probably give you very little benefit to dropping the clutch at anything more than 2000rpm.
If you are truly interested in seeing different course designs, feel free to sign up as an eventmaster/course designer for one of our events. It's a great way to learn a lot about the nuances of course design, and how much of a challenge it is to make an overall course that is fun to drive and flows well. We have plenty of folks that are willing and able to help you, as well, so don't feel like you'd be under too much pressure.
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